Indian Occupation

       There are but few men now living who saw the Town of Portland before the white settler became the successor of the Indian.  Their first view introduced them to the landscape as nature dressed it.  Traversing the center of the town from the north to within a mile of its south line is the Crawfish River turning to the east and north near where it approaches Section 27.  Its valley expands towards the south into the Portland marsh, a great part of which was of a swampy character.  West of the river, the settler met with beautiful stretches of oak openings which were easily cleared for agricultural purposes. 

       On the east and north side of the river, there was heavy timber consisting of oak, maple, basswood, cherry, etc.; a typical hardwood forest whose wild and entangled condition was the least attractive to the settler who was forced by his circumstances to select a sight for a home that would admit of raising grain and vegetables for family consumption the first season of its occupation.  The southeast section of the town south of the river resembled in most part the western half.  The work of the ice during the Glacial Period distributed over the uplands a drift rich in the elements that produce grain and vegetables; time worked its decomposition into a surface soil of great fertility.

       Prior to the advent of the whites, the Town of Portland was a part of the vast wild fields where the Indian roamed at will unmolested by claimants of record to the lands.  It was nature's domain and its possession belonged to beast or Indian as might be determined.  There is considerable evidence of frequent conflicts between them.  The fragments of Indian weapons found in great profusion show they had been employed in the destruction of animals.  The Indian was forced to provide food which caused a continual warfare upon animals that shared with him nature's gifts of water, fruit, and herb. 

       The varied landscape, the groves, forests, marshes, and particularly the river, made Portland attractive to wild beasts and fowl of every description; the river giving life to an abundance of fish.  It was thus made by nature a choice hunting ground where wolf, bear, deer and buffalo were numerous.  The Indian followed the game and spent much time where it was plentiful.  The cultivated fields on either side of the Crawfish, after its bend to the eastward, have given up thousands of stone implements used by the Indians demonstrating that here were hunted the animals they needed for food supply.

       So numerous were the lost arrow points, that on the surface of many cultivated fields, after the spring rains, they were found by the hundred.  In addition  to arrow points, fine specimens of stone axes, celts, hoes, drills, and the like, have been found.  The writer has many of them in his collection among which are copper spears and a copper knife picked up on the farm owned by Charles Haseleu on the north bank of the river in the vicinity of what was early called "Stoney Island".  These relics of Indian skill are found all along the river to the shores of "Mud Lake" where traces of Indian life may still be seen of such different character.  On the south bank of the river, as it enters the swampy district called "Mud Lake", and on the farm owned for decades by John McGovern, is the site of the "Indian Gardens".  It was a field used for growing corn and other vegtables.  The marks left by the Indian hoe were known to the early settlers and probably are still to be seen.  Nearby are many small mounds marking the  graves of Indians.  On the north side of the river and between the highway and the lake may still be discerned the remains of several large conical shaped mounds of great antiquity.  It was a tradition, related to the first settlers by visiting bands of Winnebago Indians, that at a remote time a great battle was fought at this point in which their ancestors defeated a powerful tribe of fierce warriors who came from the west.  In the commemoration of the event, the Winnebagoes gathered annually at the "Gardens" where they participated in customary festivals.  The pioneers were familiar with the several Indian trails that centered there.  One trail led across the Maunesha in the Village of Waterloo, where the stream sweeps to the north along the Ryder farm, and followed along its south bank to a point about where the Maunesha is crossed by the highway east of the Village of Portland from which it led to the highland in the direction of the Indian Gardens. 

       Another well defined trail connected the "Gardens" with the Aztalan mounds; still another extended to the northwestward while two or three trails led to the eastward.  These evidences indicate that the Indians attached great importance to the eastern section of the town, and the finding of great numbers of their weapons of warfare within a limited radius, contributes strong proof in support of the claim of the Indians that they had gathered at the "Gardens" annually for many decades, if not for centuries. 

       The Indian burial site became at an early day the property of John McGovern.  It was fortunate for the dust of the braves who lie there that so conscientious a person became master of that soil.  Mr. McGovern resisted all requests on the part of inquisitive strangers to excavate these little grave mounds, and during his lifetime, no desecration of the resting places of the savage of the Crawfish was allowed.  All of the Indian graves remained intact save one that was opened by Henry Giles of Waterloo before Mr. McGovern discovered him at work.  Owing to the shifting of the Indians as the fortunes of their wars were for or against them, it is impossible to say that this section of the state was part of the hunting grounds of any particular tribe. 

       When the French visited Wisconsin territory early in the 17th century, it was learned that hunting parties of the Illinois tribe visited the valley of the Rock River, and likewise, that the tribes to the north, of which the Winnebagoes was one, frequently went far to the south in their search for game.  It is asserted by archeologists that the Wisconsin mounds were built by the Winnebagoes whom they identify with the Sioux of the western prairie.  If this be true, the mounds on the shores of Mud Lake indicate an occupation of the Town of Portland by that tribe for a long period of time.

       The annual gathering of the Winnebagoes at the "Gardens" soon ceased after the whites took possession.  The saloons at Hubbleton, then called the "Steam Mill", sold the visiting Indians whiskey and one or two of their last meetings were turned into drunken  brawls.  As the settlements were extended, the remnant of this one noble tribe of redmen was forced to retreat farther and farther from this favored hunting ground of their fathers.  Early in the 60's, the graves of their ancestors were visited only by small parties that for several years thereafter wandered about the neighborhood doing some fishing and trapping.  When these means were insufficient for their support, they went from house to house begging food and clothing.  The pioneers of Portland suffered little if any at the hands of the Indians.  It appears that they went their way without molesting the whites or their property. 

       William Gingles makes the following mention of the Indians:  "The Indians had no permanent settlement at Mud Lake at the time my father located here, but had had at some time before".  "The old Indian Garden on the east (west) side of Mud Lake and Carleton Point on the west just opposite, are often visited now by relic hunters.  The Garden shows plainly the ridges where once were their corn fields.  The Indians camped on Carleton Point a few days in Spring on their way to hunting and fishing grounds farther down the Crawfish. 

       We boys used to get a good deal of fun out of visiting them over at the Point.  I never heard of their being troublesome at that time, except on one occasion they had got hold of a quantity of "firewater" and frightened a family by the name of Kelley pretty badly."

       James Ruane writes of the Indian:  "In the early days, Indians were frequent visitors in the eastern part of Portland.  Unheralded, they would make their appearance moving along through the woods in single file.  An occasional grunt and the cracking of twigs or the rustling of dry leaves were the only sounds that resulted from their march through the woods.  Their destination was always the point of land on which the Van Deldan Bridge was built.  Here they pitched their tents and hunted and fished as had been done no doubt for centuries.  They were the last sad remnant of a mighty race that for generations had occupied that part of the country as a happy hunting ground.  Indian mounds and many relics of Indian activity existed there and some day science may make these mounds and relics yield  up the story of Indian life of bygone ages." Having pitched their tents and settled down to housekeeping, if it might be called by that name, the Indian seemed to lose his silence.  They talked and laughed as other people, and a joke on any of his fellows was enjoyed immensely by the erstwhile taciturn red man.  The little girls played with dolls as do white girls but they usually had them strapped to something and the boys took great pleasure in shooting at a target with bows and arrows.  The contests were very keen and were watched with equal interest by the white boys of the neighborhood. 

       The Indian visitors became fewer and fewer each year until not enough came to pitch a tent.  Then they sought to stay in the houses of their white brothers.  Two came to our house once and wanted to stay all night.  One of them had been drinking "firewater" and father was afraid to let him stay in his intoxicated condition.  He at first refused, but fearing the Indian might fire the house if he was turned out, he permitted the red man to stay.  He slept on his blanket near the stove and with grunts and gestures expressed his thankfulness the next morning."

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